The Ultimate Guide to Golf
INTRODUCTION
Famous author Mark Twain once wrote, “Golf is a good walk wasted.”
Many
people feel this way. After all, what’s so fun and interesting
about hitting a little
white ball with a metal stick trying to get it in a little hole?
However, the truth is
there is fun to be had on the golf course as is evidenced by the
millions of golf
enthusiasts all over the world.
Ever since the game of golf was invented back in the 15th century, people
have been fascinated with mastering this often frustrating game.
In 1750, the
game of golf evolved into what we know it as today, and since that
time,
technology and technique has improved on the game, but mastering
the game of
golf still lies in the individual playing the game.
One of the great things about golf is that it is more than a
physical sport.
Your mental state can play a huge part in your golf game. If you
hit a bad shot, it
can really affect your next stroke and so on and so forth. It’s
important to realize
that if golf were less challenging, it wouldn’t be nearly as much
fun.
People can spend thousands of dollars in efforts to improve their
golf game.
They buy videos, books, new equipment, and lessons from a
professional.
Improving the golf game is a multi-million dollar industry as it
seems like there are
all sorts of people offering advice on things you can change to
improve your score.
Just as the golf swing has been improved upon over time, so has
the
equipment used to play golf. In the 1800’s, golf bags came into
use as an easier
way to carry around clubs and balls. Golf balls were made lighter
and able to
travel further and tees were used to help make the ball easier to hit
off the tee
box.
But even with all this new technology, no one has really perfected
the game
of golf. If that were the case, there would be scores of 18 with a
hole in one on
every hole. The truth is that even the professionals can’t perfect
their golf game.
Man is fallible and he makes mistakes. But when it comes to the
game of golf,
mistakes are inevitable.
I’ve heard many golfers tell me that they played great but scored
horribly.
That statement made me really think about my own golf game. I,
too, have had
rounds where I’ve hit the ball well but it wasn’t reflected in my
score. How is it
possible that we can hit the ball so well yet still take a 6 on a
par 4 hole? The
answer isn’t easy, but it can be addressed.
I’m not a golf pro, but I do love the game of golf. I’ve always
wanted to
improve my golf game, so this book will help both you and me. I
decided that
researching what the pros have to say would be a great way to put
their advice to
good use. Compiling all of that information into this book would
also be a great
way to share that advice.
Let’s look at different aspects of the game of golf and find some
easy ways
to improve our scores!
EQUIPMENT
Believe it or not, the equipment you use in your golf game can
truly make a
difference in how well you strike the ball. With new technologies
in club designs
and materials used to make the clubs, you can get overwhelmed at
the various
choices you will have when buying golf equipment. We’ll look at
this section from
the perspective of your skill level.
Beginner – Average scores over 100
Because you are just learning the game, you will want to have
clubs that are
more forgiving when you make bad shots – and those bad shots will
come. The
beginning golfer should be looking for clubs that are the most
forgiving when the
ball is struck off-center. Perimeter-weighted clubs place the most
weight of the
club around the edges, which prevents the club head from turning
with a poorly hit
shot.
If you would like something that makes it very easy to get the
ball in the air,
you should look for irons that have more sole weighting. Sole
weighting lowers
the center of gravity by putting the weight under the ball,
helping to get it in the
air quicker.
Titanium is stronger, denser and lighter than steel, thus the club
head can be
made larger with the same amount of material. A larger head also
means the size
of the sweet spot will be larger. Since off-center shots will make
you lose distance,
a larger sweet spot will be the most forgiving.
Some heads feature an "offset" design to prevent your
shots spinning leftto-
right and giving a straighter ball flight. The offset means the
face is slightly
behind the hostel of the club head. This gives you an extra split
second in the
swing to get the face back to the square position.
For your driver, the larger the head the more forgiving it will
be. These are
all going to have the largest face, producing the largest sweet
spot. This is very
important, since a beginner doesn't always hit the ball right in
the middle of the
clubface. (Studies have shown you lose 10 yards for every
1/8" of an inch you
miss the sweet spot!!!)
For fairway woods, the lower profile woods make it easier to get
the ball
airborne, as the weight is mostly below the center of the ball.
Graphite shafts are the most forgiving shafts for poorly hit
shots. They
absorb the vibration like a shock absorber, allowing for a much
better feeling shot.
Graphite shafts are lighter weight, so you will pick up some swing
speed which will
give you more distance. For this reason graphite shafts are more
popular than
steel shafts in the metal woods when distance is your primary
goal.
Steel shafts don't feel as soft, and they are heavier, but they
are more
accurate than graphite. For this reason, they are usually better
for the irons, since
you are less concerned with distance and more concerned with
accuracy since you
are hitting into greens and at the pin.
Intermediate – Scores between 80 and 100
The intermediate golfer should be looking for a club that maximizes
both
distance and control. The more perimeter-weighting you have, the
more forgiving
the club, but the more weight directly behind the ball gives you
more distance.
These club heads all seek to optimize the balance between distance
and control.
You should look for distance clubs with titanium heads. They are
very light,
allowing you to generate more club head speed to get more
distance, yet still more
controllable than the largest of the oversize titanium heads.
For intermediate golfers, any shaft would work well. It’s
important that you
pick out the properties of a shaft that will help your game the
most. The
lightweight shafts have a lower flex point, which help you get the
ball in the air
quicker. The standard weight shafts have a higher flex point,
which allows for
better control. Graphite shafts and the True Temper Sensicore
shafts have a bit
softer feel.
Advanced – Average score less than 80
Advanced golfers need the weight of the club head where it is
needed most…
right behind the ball. The weight is more directly behind the
ball, meaning a shot
struck in the center of the club will explode off the club face.
The advanced golfer will want a driver with a large head so the
sweet spot is
larger and you have a better possibility of longer drives. Irons
should be
lightweight with the proper degree of loft for all situations.
If you are an advanced golfer, you probably already know what
clubs work
best for you and where you need to upgrade.
Test out various clubs and find which ones are good fits for you.
Practice, if
possible, with different styles and take note of those that give
you the best results.
When it comes to golf balls, you will want those that can give you
the most
distance and that aren’t too “hard”. There are many brands on the
market that
can fit into this mold, so test out a few and see which one you
like the best.
So you’ve got your equipment, now let’s take a look at some of the
basics of
golf and a good, effective golf swing.
THE BASICS
The purpose of this book isn’t to teach you how to swing a golf
club.
However, it can never hurt to go over the basics of the golf swing
and the golf
stance. So often, we get into bad habits on the golf course when
it comes to our
swings. We forget the things we initially learned about and start
swinging the club
in really the wrong way.
Everyone has their own golf swing style. Very few people stand the
same
way, have the same backswing, and hit the ball the same way. For
that matter,
very few people are able to duplicate a swing exactly the same
every single time.
But there are some basics to a good golf swing that everyone
should keep in mind.
The full golf swing is an unnatural, highly complex motion and
notoriously
difficult to learn. It is not uncommon for beginners to spend
several months
practicing the very basics before playing their first ball on a
course. It is usually
very difficult to acquire a stable and successful swing without
professional
instruction and even highly skilled golfers may continue to take
golf lessons for
many years.
So let’s just go over the basics of the golf swing first – just as
a review.
The Grip
There are three basic golf grips that you can use: the overlapping
grip, the
baseball grip, and the interlocking grip. We’ll cover each of
those in a minute.
Here’s the basic rule for gripping a golf club.
Start by holding the club directly in front of you with your right
hand with
the club head pointing away from you at about a 45 degree angle.
Next grip the club with your left hand. The club will be mainly in
the palm
across the pads at the base of the fingers. However, the club will
lie across the first
section of the index finger. The thumb will be positioned straight
on top of the golf
club shaft. Relative to the golf club, the thumb will be in the
twelve o’clock
position.
Now, with your right hand, grip the golf club just above your left
hand with
the fingers, not the palm, of your right hand. The thumb will be
positioned slightly
off to the left. Relative to the golf club, the thumb will be in
an eleven o’clock
position.
If you have gripped the golf club correctly, only the first two
knuckles of your
left hand will be visible. Also, your left thumb should be
completely hidden under
your right hand. The index finger position of your right hand will
look and feel like
a gun trigger finger.
Here are three of the most common golf grips and how to use them:
The overlapping grip is the most common golf grip used. It
is used mostly
by male golfers and those with strong wrists and forearms. The
little finger
of the right hand lies on top of or overlaps the index finger on
the left hand.
The baseball grip is most commonly used by younger
golfers, females,
seniors, and those with weaker wrists and arms. The index finger
of the left
hand and the little finger of the right hand meet but do not
overlap or
interlock.
An interlocking grip will be used by golfers with shorter
hands and fingers,
those with thicker or chunkier palms, and golfers who have
difficulty with the
overlapping grip. The index finger of the left hand and the little
finger of the
right hand overlap each other and interlock.
If your golf grip pressure is right, the club could almost be
pulled out of your
hands, but not quite. A correct golf grip will make you feel as if
you are holding
the club mostly in the palm and last three fingers of your left
hand. Regardless,
both hands should hold the club with equal pressure. A correct
golf grip doesn’t
guarantee a successful golf swing; however, a defective golf grip
will almost always
result in a failed golf swing.
Your Stance
If you start with a bad golf stance, you’ll probably follow with a
bad golf back
swing, a bad downswing, and a bad follow through. Not to worry
though. It’s just
not that difficult! Your golf stance may not be perfect, but you
can compensate by
staying balanced and relaxed. Your weight should be equally
distributed over your
left and right leg. If you can pick either of your feet off the
ground, you’re not
balanced.
Start by placing the inside of your front foot just ahead of the
ball. Since
you’re going to be using a driver or 3 wood, the front and back
feet should be
shoulder width or slightly more than shoulder width apart.
Next, bend at the top of the legs (keep your back straight) and
then bend
slightly at the knees. The kneecaps will be directly above the
balls of your feet.
The angle of your back to the ground will be approximately 45
degrees. Your arms
should be hanging straight down from your shoulders.
Good posture counts. Keep your back straight but don’t tense up.
You might
think of it as pushing your back pockets higher.
Your weight should be on the balls of your feet, not on the toes
or heels.
Likewise, your weight should be equally distributed between your
front and back
foot. Now you should be more comfortable and less tense. If you’re
out of balance,
you’re falling down. That’s no way to start a good golf swing.
A line drawn across the front of your feet should point to your
target. You
may want to check this by first placing your club up against the
toes of your feet
and then step back and see if the club is really pointing to your
target. This is your
target line and your knees, hips, and shoulders should also be
parallel to this line.
One slight adjustment will be the position of your shoulders. When
you
assume the proper golf stance and grip, your club and left arm
will form a straight
line between your shoulder and the ball. For this to happen, your
right shoulder
will be slightly lower to the ground than the left, but a line
through your shoulders
should still be parallel to the target line.
Once you grip the club and take your stance at the ball, find a
way to relax
and loosen up before you start your swing. You may want to waggle –
or shake
your tush - just a little bit and to heck with those who might
laugh at you. Once
you hit that monster shot, they’ll stop. Now you’re ready to
swing.
The Backswing
Essentially, the backswing is a rotation to the right, consisting
of a shifting of
the player's body weight to the right side, a turning of the
pelvis and shoulders,
lifting of the arms and flexing of the elbows and wrists. At the
end of the
backswing the hands are above the right shoulder, with the club
pointing more or
less in the intended direction of ball flight.
The downswing is roughly a backswing reversed. After the ball is
hit, the
follow-through stage consists of a continued rotation to the left.
At the end of the
swing, the weight has shifted almost entirely to the left foot,
the body is fully
turned to the left and the hands are above the left shoulder with
the club hanging
down over the players' back.
Instead of thinking about your arms and swinging your club
backwards, try
to think of your back swing as turning your back to the target.
You’re not swinging
the club up in the air; instead you’re just putting the club
behind your back. It’s
like winding a spring!
The back swing works from the top down. The back swing takeaway starts
at the top with your arms and shoulder turning, and it works its
way down to your
hips and legs.
The back swing is all about coiling up your body and creating the
muscle
tension or torque needed to release a powerful downswing. More
specifically,
resistance is created between the greater turning of the upper
body and shoulders
and the lesser turning of the hips and lower body.
Don’t get in a hurry! A hurried back swing doesn’t make the
downswing any
faster. In fact, it may be just the opposite. You’ve got to
remember that
somewhere at the top of that back swing, you’ve got to change and
go the exact
opposite direction.
The speed of your back swing should be at a steady tempo, not real
fast or
real slow. The tendency is to go too fast. Any time your golf
swing begins to break
down; your first correction should usually be to slow down my back
swing.
Turn your back toward the target or, maybe better, think of
turning your
chest away from the target. Pick the thought that produces the
greater feeling of
coiling or resistance. Don’t allow the back knee to fly outwards.
Keep your weight
towards the inside of that foot.
Your wrists should be completely cocked by the time your left arm
is parallel
to the ground. The golf club shaft should be at a 90 degree angle
to your left arm.
Don’t focus on the club head during the backswing. Instead think
of the arm
as being hinged at the left shoulder. Then, like a gate that
swings open from its
hinges, the left arm hinges at the left shoulder and swings across
the body until it
approaches the right side at my right armpit. The left arm remains
relatively
straight, but could bend slightly.
Your shoulder and upper body turn begin as the left arm reaches
this
position. As the arms go back, two things should happen:
1. The forearms will naturally rotate clockwise slightly until the
golf club head
points to the sky. Opening the club face more won’t seem right to
you if
you tend to slice, but don’t resist this very natural movement.
2. As your arms travel up and back and the golf club shaft
approaches parallel
to the ground, you will gradually begin cocking your wrists. Then
by the time
that your left arm is parallel to the ground, your wrists should
be completely
cocked at a 90 degree angle.
Cocking your wrists is a very important part of creating club head
speed.
This is often a big swing problem. You can get so concerned about “taking
the club
straight back” at the beginning of your back swing that you don’t
completely cock
your wrists. Fixing this problem can straighten out several golf
swing problems.
The next part of the golf swing is the shoulder and upper body
turn. The left
arm has swung across the body near the right armpit. The natural
continuation of
this motion is to begin the turning of the shoulders. The shoulders
will turn from
parallel to the target line to approximately perpendicular to the
target line
depending on your own flexibility. As this happens, the hips and
then legs will also
become involved in the turn.
Wouldn’t you like to feel more body torque build up in your golf
back swing?
Of course! A friend gave me this golf swing tip just the other
day. Maybe you’ll find
it to be as helpful as I did.
Instead of trying to create body torque by turning your shoulders,
think of
turning your lower chest (Let’s say about six inches above your
bellybutton) away
from the target. Of course when you do it this way your shoulders
will still turn but
you should feel much more torque building through your body.
Don’t let the knee of your back leg turn or fly out or to the back
as the back
swing progresses. You’ll lose part of your body torque.
At the height of the back swing, you’ll feel like your back is
over top of your back
leg. At this point your weight has shifted back over your back
leg.
It is truly a myth that the head stays over the ball as at address
and the
body turns on an axis formed by a line traveling through the head
and the
backbone. In reality, the body turns on an axis formed by a line
traveling through
the head and the back leg. Keep in mind that the head is moving
slightly
backwards. The head should stay fairly level and not bob up and
down.
Where are the arms and club at the end of the back swing? Should
the golf
club be parallel to the ground? Honestly, you shouldn’t really don’t
give that much
thought. As long as you don’t bend the left arm more than
slightly, these positions
will be determined by how far you can turn your upper body.
If you keep your back knee in, the back foot will feel your body
weight on
the inside as the shoulders turn. Towards the end of the golf back
swing, some
golfers make the mistake of letting the heel of their front foot
leave the ground. If
the back swing coils the spring, the feet must stay anchored to
the ground to give
the body something to coil against. Better to let the front foot
roll or sort of lay
down on the inside of the foot without dragging.
If you start with a correct golf stance, grip, and back swing, the
best advice
for your down swing for the most part is to just let it happen!
The down swing and follow through should be the very natural
result of
everything that precedes it. You may want to use the “No Arms
Drill” in the next
section to memorize the feel of the golf swing which leads to a
more comfortable,
automatic golf swing.
If you’re at the correct position at the top of your back swing,
your body will
start to unwind releasing the golf club which will strike the golf
ball and lead to a
balanced follow through.
Think of the follow-through as your victory salute to a successful
golf swing!
Your front leg will be fairly straight and your hips will be
forward forming a straight
line with your front leg.
Your head may feel like its back a bit and your back leg will be
forward of the
back foot which has rolled to the inside, front of the foot. Most
all of your weight
will be on your front foot, completing your weight shift from the
back side to the
front side.
This is like a barometer of your entire swing. When your golf
swing is
balanced and smooth, you end with that nice reverse C position at
the end.
On the other hand, you could end your golf swing off balance and
catching
yourself from falling down. Then it’s time to go back to the
beginning of your golf
swing and find where you lost that balance.
You should have only one swing thought during your golf down
swing. That’s
because you really don’t have time for two. Consequently, your
only thought
should be to turn your belt buckle (or bellybutton) towards the
target as fast as
you possibly can.
This movement should begin about a third or half way through the
golf down
swing. It will end, of course, when you are pointed towards the
target at which
point you will have already hit the golf ball and you’re into the
follow through. And
you should also be seeing the golf ball traveling straight down
the fairway!
On the golf down swing your body will move forward and turn on an
axis
formed by a line traveling through the head and the front leg.
Keep in mind that
the head will be moving forward from its position at the end of
your golf back
swing; however, the head should stay fairly level and not bob up
and down.
Since the golf down swing starts from the bottom and works its way
up, then
the feet are the place to start. Let’s see, at the end of the back
swing, the front
foot was rolling (almost laying down) on the inside of that foot.
Consequently, a good trigger motion would start by moving the left
side
towards the target and placing that foot back to being flat on the
ground.
To trigger this move, you should plant your front foot by moving
the front
knee towards the target. Your lower body will slide towards the
target.
Since both knees are still slightly bent and flexed, this move
will give you
sort of a squatty look and feel. You might feel as if you’re
dropping down slightly.
Planting that front foot begins the chain reaction of your body
uncoiling and your
weight will shift back to the left (front) side.
What you do not want to do is start the down swing with your arms
and
shoulders. This move will cause your wrists to un-cock too soon
(called casting)
resulting in some pretty nasty results (topped shots, slices).
The most effective golf swing tip I’ve found to prevent casting is
also a very
logical one. Begin your down swing before you finish your back
swing. Makes
sense! You’re not likely to start your down swing with your arms
and upper body if
they’re still winding up.
So, as you feel your upper body approaching the end of the back
swing you
will move your front knee towards the target. As you do this, you’ll
feel that low,
squatty position and know that you’re starting your back swing
properly with the
lower body.
Often the golf swing feels uncomfortable and awkward, so you may
want to
try the following drill until you start feeling better about the
golf swing.
No Arms Drill
Remember, I said you should probably be spending less time
thinking
about what your arms are doing and where they’re going? Once my
wrists are
cocked, I really don’t think much about my arms.
This golf swing drill, simply put, is just practicing your golf
swing without
using a golf club. Consequently, you’ll be able to concentrate on
the feeling of your
muscles coiling up and releasing without being confused or
distracted by the
movement of your arms.
This is also a good opportunity to practice keeping your feet on
the ground.
Practice having your front foot roll inward on the golf back swing
and memorize
that feeling.
Another upside to this drill is that you can practice it anywhere
or anytime.
Begin by getting into your regular golf stance. You can place a
ball down in
front of you or imagine where it would be if that helps. Now
instead of holding a
golf club, cross your arms in front of you to where your left hand
is at your right
shoulder and your right hand is at your left shoulder.
Try not to do this drill fast or slow, but at a steady tempo. Do
this drill
frequently and memorize the movements and how they feel so you can
do them
without think when you’re on the golf course.
Again, the golf back swing starts at the top (your shoulders and
arms) and
works its way down to your hips and legs. Remember, your head will
move to the
back but should not bob up or down. It should stay level.
Of course, in this drill you don’t use your arms, so you begin by
turning your
shoulders. I find it more beneficial to think of turning your
midsection (Let’s say
about six inches above your bellybutton.) away from the target. Of
course when
you do it this way your shoulders will also turn. Get comfortable
as you are feeling
the torque building through your body.
As your shoulders and hips turn, remember to not let your right
(back) knee
turn outwards (towards the back). This will have the feeling of
pushing that knee
inwards and/or keeping your body weight more on the inside of the
back foot.
Feel the front knee turn inwards and the front foot rolls towards
the inside
but still stay on the ground.
Start from the bottom. This golf swing drill is a good time to
practice moving
your front knee towards the target as a trigger to your down
swing. Don’t forget to
start that move before the back swing is complete. Get comfortable
with that low,
squatty feeling.
Turn your hips with the swing thought of turning your belt buckle
to the
target. You will feel like your hips are leading the rest of your
body. The shoulders
will follow as you pivot on your front leg.
Use this drill to commit to memory, or muscle memory, any movement
that
isn’t a swing thought.
In a slight variation of this drill, you could start the golf back
swing with
your arms (no club). Practice hinging your arms at the shoulder
and cocking your
wrists as your arms cross your chest near the back arm pit
triggering your
shoulder turn.
And that’s the basics of the golf swing. You won’t get any better
unless you
practice, but if you have good solid mechanics in your golf swing,
you have the
beginning to a great game!
We’ve already said that golf is much more than just a physical
game. It’s a
mental game as well. You have to keep a positive mindset when on
the golf
course, so getting your mind in the right place is very important.
THE MENTAL GAME OF GOLF
When you begin to address the golf ball and prepare for your
swing, it’s
essential that you have a sense of relaxation. If you are tense
when you swing
your club, the chances of you hitting a bad shot are increased by
leaps and
bounds. However, you don’t want to be TOO relaxed lest your grip
isn’t tight
enough to hit the ball solidly.
Without relaxation, it is more difficult to maintain your tempo or
rhythm
from swing to swing and stay in good balance from start to finish.
Because it is
essential for the golf swing to function properly, relaxation of
the mind and body
should be our first priority. Please keep in mind that this also
applies to the short
game, even though I will be referring to the full swing.
Tension restricts movement. A quiet, relaxed mind and body allows
you to
swing more freely. Simply stated, muscle groups respond more
easily to a natural,
balanced swing motion.
If your mind is tense, your muscles will be too. If you have had a
hectic day
at work or at home, chances are you will take that tension and
anxiety to the first
tee. This tension not only causes tight muscles, but can also
increase the speed of
your swing.
When that happens, the little muscles (hands and arms) take over
the big
muscles (shoulders, hips, and legs) throughout the golf swing. The
big muscle
groups cannot move as fast as the little muscles. All body parts
must be given
time to do their jobs efficiently and in harmony.
First, clear your mind. Picture your mind as a blackboard, and
written on it
are all the thoughts and happenings of the day. The key is that
you've got the
eraser! Erase your mind of everything and take a moment to put
yourself in an
environment that makes you relaxed, quiet and happy.
Envision yourself listening to soft music, reading a good book,
relaxing in
your favorite chair, strolling in the park, hiking, fishing,
walking on the beach, or
simply being in the mountains.
Basically, pick whatever image that helps you relax, and then put
your mind
and senses in that personal place. Be explicit. Actually hear the
music or the
waves. Feel the warm breeze or the water flowing around your body.
See the
mountains in all their glory. Smell the flowers. Take a deep
breath and let it out
slowly. Allow your mind and body to come down so that you can be
up and ready
to play a good round of golf. Now your mind and body can focus
more clearly on
one shot, one hole at a time.
Second, practice more relaxation in your grip, stance, and swing.
Check the
tension level in your grip. The hand pressure on the club should
be light. If it is too
tight, your takeaway will tend to be jerky and too fast. If you
are not sure of the
amount of pressure, let your hands feel the difference by
squeezing tightly and
then releasing to a very light grip.
Notice that when you squeeze tightly, your forearms are tense.
This
generates tension throughout the body. You want just enough grip
pressure so
that you won't lose the club during the swing. No white knuckle!
What little
pressure you do feel should be in the last three fingers of the
let hand, and the
third and fourth fingers of the right.
When addressing the ball, your arms should hand relaxed. The
forearms
should be soft - like ashes, wet noodles, or any other descriptive
word of your
choice that triggers relaxation. If your left arm is jammed
straight, tension is
created in the shoulders. I've seen some golfers who looked like
they were trying
to jab their left shoulders into their left ears.
The left arm should hang comfortably straight and the shoulders
should
droop. The legs should also be set in a relaxed starting position.
Trying to force
your weight to your insteps can cause lower body immobility.
Now waggle! The waggle helps keep the body loose and in motion.
Freezing
over the ball can cause tension. Chances are you are thinking too
much, and
paralysis of analysis can set in. Develop a waggle that is
comfortable to you.
Most waggles consist of moving the club to and fro over the ball
(not up and
down) with a slight weight shift back and forth from foot to foot,
while you look at
the ball, then to the target, then back to the ball.
If you do not have a clear picture of what a waggle is, observe
golfers on
television or other golfers on your course. Waggles vary, but good
golfers always
stay in motion.
Most importantly, your waggle must be one that you are comfortable
with.
Each person has his or her own waggle personality. Find yours and
practice until it
becomes ingrained in your swing routine. You can work on this in
your backyard.
Initiate the swing and swing relaxed. To practice a relaxed swing,
take
continuous swings back and forth without stopping. Be aware of any
tension you
might feel during these swings. Try to stay totally relaxed and
loose as you swing
back and forth. Don't be in a hurry to start or finish the swing.
When you get to
the finish, allow your body to be lazy in returning the club to
another backswing.
No jerks!
Notice whether your hands and forearms tense when initiating the
first swing
of the series. If they are tense, then repeatedly practice
starting your swing with a
feathery grip pressure so that no tension runs through to your
forearms and
thereby to the rest of your body.
Tension can cause quite an array of problems such as reverse
pivots; fast
takeaways; forced swings; loss of club head speed; rolling on the
outside of the
right foot; incorrect swing plane; fat or topped shots; big and
little muscle groups
not working together; lack of balance; or a fast tempo that your
swing cannot
handle with any efficiency.
A major problem with even professional golfers is that it is so
easy to let our
minds take a wide sweeping view of what the next shot means:
"How will it affect my score?"
"What does it mean to me personally?"
"Is this the best round I have ever played? Is it the
worse round?"
"If I sink this putt it will put me one up on my
opponent!"
"My dad is watching, I really want to do well."
All of these comments, questions and statements are possible,
along with
hundreds more, at the very time you need to be focused on the
elements of
planning and executing the shot. If you are doing this, you are
not "boxing out"
the shot.
"Boxing out" means that you mentally put up a fence
around what you need
to do, so that you are not distracted by the things and thoughts
that have no real
bearing on the shot or putt. By not "boxing out" you
allow your mind to wander to
distractions.
Remember: even pleasant thoughts of success are not relevant to
making the
shot. Sometimes this lack of limiting your thoughts is called
"outcome thinking". In
other words, you spend time and energy thinking of what the
outcome could be
and how that would feel. This is truly an unwise way of spending
the time and
energy needed to make the shot.
Think of a piece of paper with words and pictures covering it. All
of these
words and pictures are in some way related to the next shot, but
only a few of
them are helpful in making the shot. Now group the needed and
useful elements
together on the page. Now draw a box around these few things.
Some of the things in the box would be: a solid plan to make the
shot, a solid
pre-shot routine, feeling the swing or putt in your mind, seeing
the ball go to
where you want it, and ending up looking at the back of the ball
as you swing or
putt.
Things left out of the box are: past mistakes, thoughts of how bad
it would be
to miss the target, thoughts of how good it would be to make the
shot, or just
about anything else you could think of. All of these are left out
of the box because
they do not help you make the shot.
It is important to really understand what should be in the box.
Make a list of
what is important to making the shot. You may even what to
consider the
sequence or order of the included thoughts. Any other thought or
picture is out of
the box and not allowed. If you find anything in the box that does
not belong in
there, simply pick it up by its tail and drop it outside the box.
Practice limiting your
thinking to only what is in the box.
Begin by practicing at home. Practice "boxing out" fifty
times at home before
you begin to practice it in physical practice. After two or three
weeks of practice
you will be ready to begin to use this in competition. Remember,
you must first
practice mental training at home and then in physical practice
before you can
expect to use it in competition.
One of the most effective changes that a golfer can bring into his
or her game
is called step-breathing. The benefits of using step-breathing are
many. You give
yourself a solid, focused mental and physical place from which to
hit your shots or
make even the longer putts, you have a time to find the best level
of mental
arousal, and you gain more control over your playing tempo.
Another advantage of taking the time and centering yourself with
stepbreathing
is that it places a nice dividing line between the thinking part
of your
golf swing and the hitting part. The old saying is; "The
thinking must stop before
the hitting begins."
You begin to learn step-breathing at home. You simply sit in a
comfortable
chair and imagine a side view of a set of stairs. When each stair
drops down, this
is your exhale. When the stair is flat, and horizontal to the
ground, this is your
inhale.
In normal breathing your breath in and out and really never move
lower in
your body. If you were to graph a normal breath it would be a
"U" shaped curve. It
would go down on your exhale and back up on you inhale. Your
breathing would be
one long line of "U" shaped curves. This is fine for
taking in oxygen, but not very
effective for centering your mind and body to maximize your golf.
You continue your training by practicing lowering your center of
breathing
from high in your chest, near your throat, down to your lowest
point in your
stomach. Following your six or seven steps down into your body,
remember the
exhales are when you drop a little further down and the inhales
are the flat part of
the step. On the inhale you do not go down, but you also do not go
up, as in a
normal breath.
Once the breathing is very low in your body practice keeping it
there for four
or five breaths. Then let it gradually come back up. If you
practice this exercise
one hundred to one hundred and fifty times you will begin to find
that the
breathing begins to anticipate your lowered center of breathing
and your breathing
will automatically drop on the second or third breath.
When this happens you have learned the ability of using the short
form of
step-breathing. The short form of step-breathing utilizes this
learned reaction and
allows you to become fully centered using only two or three
breaths. On the
course, or even in practice, you will need to use this short form
of step-breathing
so that you can quickly get centered and ready to take the swing
or the putt.
After you have learned the short form of step-breathing you are
ready to
make it part of your pre-shot routine. After you have planned your
shot, addressed
the ball, recalled a successful shot like the one you are about to
make, you can
use the step-breathing to end your thinking, relax your body, lock
your
expectation on the exact target and be externally focused on the
ball. No thinking,
no worrying, no wobbling of focus and fully ready to put the ball
where you want
it.
Now that you can center your breathing, begin to use it on the
practice tee.
Practice your pre-shot routine before each shot. (Did you think
the practice tee
was only for physical practice? How will you find your best game
if you only
practice the physical aspects of your game?
Establish your exact target, complete the step-breathing short
form, focus on
the ball and let yourself hit the ball. By practicing the entire
routine you will soon
be very comfortable with the procedure and your scores will
reflect your new level
of mental and physical control.
Do not try to utilize this or any other mental training technique
until you have
understood the theory and concepts involved and practiced the
mental technique
to the extent that you are able to fully use the procedure. Then
bring it into
competition after you have used it in practice several times.
There are no short
cuts to improving your game. You need to do the work and do it in
the right order
before you can really enjoy the higher level of play it brings.
Start practicing your long form of step-breathing today and soon
you will
have the mental control you need to play your best game.
After a mild winter many golfers are ready to hit the links with
renewed
vigor. Unfortunately, high hopes will be dashed quickly if you
can't keep your
emotions in check. Here's an example of how we like to have
'Pity" parties for
ourselves when we aren't playing too well.
There was this guy in west Texas delivering a package to a house
out in the
rural countryside. He pulls up and sees an older gentleman on the
porch in his
rocking chair. A few feet away there was a dog-moaning and whining
away.
"Excuse me, Sir." said the concerned delivery guy to the
older man on the porch.
"What's the matter with the dog?"
The old man, with an attitude of indifference replied. "Oh,
he's layin' on a
nail."
The delivery man asks "Why in the world is he doing that? Why
doesn't he
just get up?"
The old man shrugs his shoulders and says, "I reckon he ain't
hurting bad
enough yet!"
Well I think we have all met people like that pitiful dog-spending
time
whining and complaining about how their golf game is so bad and
why they can't
play well. Instead of complaining about how life is treating them
unfairly they
won't take the initiative to do something about their situation
and change their
circumstances. Sometimes people like to take umbrage in their
miserable plight
and they enjoy company whenever possible.
Nothing is going to change until you start hurting bad enough to
do
something about it. This of course applies not only to your golf
game, but life in
general. In fact, if people spent as much time looking for the
solutions to their
golfing problems as they do complaining and making excuses most of
their
problems would scurry away like that frightened dog.
Instead, they throw a "pity party" and are put out when
no one shows up to
attend. Life is too short to waste time and energy on such
negative thoughts so
move on and get some help for your game.
So "get off layin' on the nail." and you can start
having success and fun on
the course again. "Break that old broken record" that
has you playing that same
sad song and taken your game into tailspin. There's a great old
saying that goes,”
If you always do what you've always done. You'll always get what
you've always
got." It's time to start seeing the 'Light through that dark
tunnel' you have built for
yourself.
Mark Twain once said, "You can't depend on your eyes when
your
imagination is out of focus." There is a multitude of reasons
why we bury our
games into submission and none of them are good. It's time for you
to start
believing and seeing yourself pulling off the shots you dreamed
about instead of
worrying about where disaster is lurking ready to strike you down
on the course
and ruin your round.
Many players say that even when they're playing good they are
anticipating
the proverbial wheels to come off at any moment. I read a
statistic somewhere
that 92% of what we worry about or fear never comes to fruition:
meaning that
you’re wasting your time on meaningless things distracting you
from your goals.
Stop concerning yourself with past events or things in your game
that you
have no control. "You can't water yesterday's crops with
today's tears." Let it go
and move onward!
It's a good practice to mentally play a round in your mind where
you control
the ball and place it where you want it to go avoiding all the
problems such as
water, out of bounds, sand, etc. Try it sometime and let your
imagination run wild.
Take notice of this mental exercise to see if you allow bad
thoughts to enter
your mind even in your pretend round. Bad habits die hard and the
first place to
attack them is in your conscious mind.
In order to eliminate bad habits that you have formed in your game
try this 3
step process:
1. First confront your fears in your game and admit them by
writing them
down on a piece of paper.
2. Replace it-it's time to trade in bad habits and negative
behavior for good
ones.
3. Stick with it-by being persistent, diligent and remaining
disciplined your
game plan you'll be soon forming a new habit.
We can't change our circumstances about how the ball bounces so to
speak,
but we can alter our response to them. It's all about choice so
choose wisely.
Having a brighter outlook about playing and excepting occasional
bad breaks that
are inevitable will help you start getting over being "Teed
off" about yourself and
your golf game
However, sometimes losing your cool can be good because it can
help you let
off some steam and help you refocus on the task at hand. Often, as
all golfers
know we keep it bottled up which can impair our performances for
the rest of the
round.
The key is to allow yourself to completely vent, then refocus
again
immediately. By venting I don't mean throwing or breaking clubs,
or cursing. The
skill of refocusing lies in knowing what the most important
element to master is.
How does a person learn to regain composure after losing it?
Just remember that losing your cool is nothing more than focusing
on what
went wrong, and allowing yourself to get frustrated, angry, ticked
off, etc. Think
about how you respond when you’re angry - you breathe faster, your
body
tightens up, your heart rate increases and so on.
These stress messages you’re sending to your brain only make your
body
tighten up more sabotaging your abilities to perform properly.
This unfortunate
cycle will continue until you learn to break this broken record
set on self-destruct.
In a tense situation the best way to regain your composure is to
work in the
opposite direction, to get your body to calm down, this in turn
will allow your mind
to calm down by taking several deep breathes, and by pushing away
any negative
thoughts.
There's a good method called "Treeing" which seems
appropriate since you’re
on the golf course with plenty of trees. What you do is take your
emotions in this
case negative thoughts and put them onto something else.
Some older cultures throughout the world have used this technique
for
centuries. They learned to pass their bad feelings or negative
emotions to a tree,
hence the name. So next time when you’re on the golf course and
you’re losing
your cool find a tree and push or touch it physically releasing
your pressure that
you’re feeling into the object and leave it there.
After you have dealt with the past it's time to move on to the
future which in
this case is a new hole, or shot at hand. Remember you can't
change the past, but
you can profoundly affect your future with the proper mind set.
There's no longer
a reason to carry all this emotional baggage to the next hole so
let it go. So next
time you see a player in the woods a lot during a round maybe they’re
just getting
rid of some issues that are bothering them.
This is all easier said than done, but like all things with a
little practice and
some discipline you'll be recovering from poor shots quicker and
salvaging your
round instead of going from bad to worse. The best players in the
world all have
their own particular methods for staying cool, so watch how they
handle poor
shots while they are in town.
It's traits like staying cool when everyone else is losing their
heads that make
the difference from being a good player to becoming a great
player.
So many people are harder on themselves than they need to be.
Constantly
berating yourself is a recipe for disaster. The dialog that you
hold with yourself is
critical to your development as a player and as a person.
Self-talk can be encouraging or it can be detrimental, according
to how you
present it to yourself. Remember: Your mind doesn't have a sense
of humor. If you
program it to do something and the message is negative, it will
respond
accordingly.
This is why it's important to monitor your inner dialog; what you
say to
yourself after a poor shot can be self-destructive. Even the best
players in the
world are guilty of this mistake, and if they don't make
corrections immediately,
the round or tournament is lost.
We've all beaten ourselves up after a bad day on the links, or
when things
don't go our way. If you watch a tournament on television,
periodically you'll see a
player bad-mouthing themselves. They might be saying things such
as, "I'm the
worst golfer in the world," or "Why can't I hit that
simple putt? I stink." These
statements or other expletives will bring the golfer down.
The key is to change how you talk to yourself while practicing or
on the
course. I've taught and worked with a number of sports
psychologists over the
years who gave me some good insight about how to break negative
self-talk
patterns.
First, you need to be aware of situations when negative thoughts
can occur.
Here's a simple method to get you started on the right track: The
next time
you head out to play a round of golf, put a handful of pennies in
your right pants
pocket. Not too many to weigh you down, though.
Every time - and I mean every time - you become aware of negative
images
or internal dialog where you're speaking poorly to yourself,
transfer one penny
from your right pocket to your left pocket. By learning to monitor
your thoughts,
you're on the right path to correcting your inner demons.
When you're finished playing, count out the number of pennies that
made the
journey from one pants pocket to the other. Then write down the
total. Try to
remember what words you used, and what situations prompted them.
Then, start setting some new, clearer goals. In this case, the
goal is to
attempt to cut down on the number of negative self-talk speeches.
Just like you
have goals to shoot certain scores, you need to apply this same
attitude with
correcting this debilitating self-talk.
Once you have been able to calmly re-examine your round and your
outbursts of negativity, imagine yourself reacting to those
circumstances in a
different way and replacing those negative statements with
positive thoughts.
Learn to laugh with yourself and say, "I can do this
shot," and other such positive
feedback to reinforce your self-worth.
With each round, make a conscious choice to reduce the negativity
and try to
remain positive - remember it's only a game. With some diligent
practice and
commitment, you're on your way to erasing bad thoughts about your
golf game.
Now that we’ve covered what should be going on in your head, let’s
take a
moment to examine each of the most important golf shots.
DRIVING THE BALL
While driving the golf ball might seem like a simple process, it
really isn’t.
Some seasoned golfers just look at driving the ball as a simple
process. “Grip it
and rip it” is a common phrase you can hear on many tee boxes.
However, there
are some things you can do to get more distance on your drives.
First and foremost, you need to be relaxed when you begin
addressing the
ball. You must be loose before pulling back the club. Do not
tighten up over the
golf ball. It is important to waggle the club back and forth a few
times in order to
create some flow to start the golf swing. This action will promote
proper rhythm
and tempo.
Teeing the ball higher will aid in hitting the ball farther. By
teeing the ball
higher, it will help achieve better launch angle and reduce
backspin at impact.
This will allow the ball to be hit on the up-swing - producing
more carry and
distance.
One of the most valuable pieces of advice this recreational golfer
ever
received was to look at the back of the ball. It’s easy to take
your gaze off of that
little white orb, but if you are not looking at the ball before
you hit it, you will be
more likely to miss it.
You will want to have a wider stance in order to gain more
stability in your
backswing. Approximately sixty percent of your body weight on the
left side to
gain a more powerful coil. If you’re right handed, point your left
toe more inline to
the target. You’ll need to swing harder and put more of your right
hand into
hitting the ball, and take advantage of all of the elements –
especially the wind, if
there is any.
When you're at the top of your backswing, be sure to turn your
shoulders a
full 90 degrees. Your back should actually be facing the target.
Look at John Daly
when he drives the golf ball. He has a massive shoulder turn. Many
players ask
him all the time how he does it. He says it's due to having a
sound technique and
a wide swing arc. He always has a rhythm to his golf swing and is
never out of
sync on his swing.
After you reach the top of your backswing, you're ready to begin
the
downswing. Do not rush your downswing. If you do, you'll have an
increased
chance of swinging straight down on the ball and eliminating any
power you had
going. You will also most likely chili dip and miss hit the golf
ball. Look at Fred
Couples and his downswing. It's nearly flawless.
Make sure to keep your left arm straight during your transition.
When you
keep your arm straight it enables the club head to remain square
and hit the ball
properly. Don't have a herky-jerky swing. Keep your golf swing
smooth. Picture
yourself hitting through the ball, not just to it. Hit hard with
your right hand.
Be sure to take advantage of the playing elements to help give you
more
distance; especially using the wind to your advantage. When you
have the wind at
your back, you should tee the golf ball higher than normal. This
gives you a higher
ball flight with more carry in the air. That means greater
distance. When you're
playing into the wind you want the opposite. Tee the ball down a
little more than
usual.
As mentioned before, you will want to look at the ball before
hitting it.
Some players find this difficult as it makes them lose focus as
they concentrate too
much on the ball. An easy answer to this problem is to turn your
chin to the right
and point it about two or three inches behind the ball. Keep it
there until impact
and then watch the ball sail through the air.
Believe it or not, the pressure you use to grip the club is
important in driving
the ball longer. Even though you may think that gripping harder
and swinging
harder produces results that is absolutely incorrect and is
probably why you don't
get consistent distance.
The great players indicated that the grip pressure should resemble
one
holding a bird without crushing it but also not letting it go. The
tighter you hold the
club, the less it will release through the ball creating severe
pulls and big
ballooning slices. Swinging hard is ok but the hands must be
tension free.
Your driving wood should stay along the ground for a least the
first 20 to 25
percent of your swing. If your club is lifting up, you will pop
the ball up and not get
that long boring drive that you see the pros hit regularly when
the ball takes off
like a missile and slowly climbs to a beautiful height and tracks
down the fairway.
Keep the angle on your leading hand. Many amateurs tend to flip
the hands
forward in an effort to get the ball in the air, but this only
retards the effort of
having good equipment. The leading hand (left hand for most
players, right hand
southpaws) should be angled down towards the ball on the
downswing.
It's like you are hitting the ball with the back of left hand. If
your left hand is
flipping up on the downswing, your contact will not be solid and
you will get
consistent misses with your wood. This tip also starts the ball
low and lets its climb
on its own through your generated power.
Finish towards the target. Pick a spot on the ground that lines up
with your
target and from your address stretch your wood towards it. If done
correctly, your
arms should form a V shape with both arms fully extended. Finish
the swing over
your left shoulder.
Do you have a tendency to bend your left arm early? That also will
retard
distance; keep your V as long as possible before it bends at the
finish of your
swing and you will find yourself getting much more distance.
Speed can be increased by setting the wrists into a cocked
position early,
and on the downswing keeping the wrists cocked for as late as
possible, and then
swishing through the ball. This is similar to flicking your wrists
when using a
badminton, squash, or tennis racket.
Golfers who are inclined to hit at the ball with their hands
rather than
swinging through the ball find that they lose a lot of power, and
hence distance.
Your power comes from your body, not from your hands. If you want
to drive the
ball further, don’t hit the ball with your hands – let the club do
the work it was
designed to do.
Of course, you will want to choose the right club for the distance
of the hole.
Obviously, you will want to choose a driver for the longer holes
to get maximum
distance, but for shorter holes like Par 3s, you will likely want
to choose a smaller
club like an iron. You will want to try and get as close to the
hole as possible, but
you also don’t want to overshoot the green either.
The best way to know how far you can hit specific clubs is to get
on the
driving range. Because golf isn’t an exact science, there are a
lot of variables that
come into play with the golf swing. But if you practice a lot,
your chances of
hitting the ball consistently are much higher. Plus, you will know
which club is
your hundred yard club and which one is your 50 yard club.
After you have driven the ball, you’ll (hopefully) be in the
fairway.
FAIRWAY SHOTS
Once you have driven off the tee box, you will probably be faced
with a
second shot, hopefully from the fairway. Of course, we hope that
you’ve been able
to make it to the green, but on longer par 5 holes, that’s just
not realistic for most
golfers.
The lie of the ball in a fairway shot will dictate how you hit
your next shot.
In some friendly games, your opponents may allow you to put the
ball up on some
grass. This will emulate, in a way, a tee since you cannot use a
tee with a fairway
shot. In tournaments or serious money games, you will probably
have to play the
ball as it lies, so it’s a good idea to know how to hit an
effective fairway shot.
Many inexperienced golfers are intimidated by the fairway shot.
They will
often baby their swing and not hit the ball fully. This is a huge
mistake. Golf clubs
are designed to work with a full golf swing and do a specific job,
so choose a club
that matches your distance from the hole and then take a full
swing. Don’t be
afraid that you’ll overshoot the hole. If you’ve picked the right
club, you’ll get to
the green.
Aim your left shoulder (the right one if you’re a southpaw) at
your target –
the flag. Your hands should be in front of the ball at impact.
Keep the same swing
motions as if you are driving the ball. To help square your
clubface, try to touch
your left forearm with your right forearm at impact.
If you are in deep grass, the main idea is to get the ball up in
the air. That
means you will want a club that has a lot of loft. That means an 8
or 9 iron
ideally. However, remember that you will most likely not get a lot
of distance with
these smaller clubs.
When you swing, be sure and follow through after impact. The laws
of
physics dictate that when you strike the ball, it will be carried
through and into the
air as your arms bring the club back up.
Your technique on deep grass shots should be geared toward
minimizing the
intervention of the grass. In other words, you want to hit the
ball as cleanly as
possible. To do that, you need to move the ball back in your
stance.
If, for instance, on a 5-iron shot from the fairway you position
the ball off
your left heel, move it back to a spot an inch to the right of
your heel for a shot
from the rough. This ball position should leave your hands
slightly ahead of the
clubface at address. From that setup you'll tend to swing the club
up a bit more
vertically on the backswing and return it a bit more steeply to
the ball. With this
steeper attack the clubface will come down on the ball rather than
brush through
the grass.
For really deep grass, again, the idea is to minimize the presence
of the
grass and how it will affect your shot. Once again, play the ball
back in your
stance, but this time, play it two inches back instead of one,
because you're going
to have to go down after the ball.
To further increase the steepness of the swing, open your stance a
few
degrees so that your feet, knees, hips and shoulders align to the
left. Your club
head should align square to the target line. It's the same basic
alignment as for a
slice, but when playing a short iron from the rough 1 you won't
have to worry
about any sideward spin.
Since the grass will grab at your club and close the face: at
impact, you'll
want an extra-firm grip in your left hand. Alternatively, you can
aim the clubface a
bit right of your target at address, thereby allowing the grass to
turn the face into
a square position at impact.
The swing should be an aggressive, forceful one. If you get a kick
out of
swinging hard, this is the place to enjoy yourself. It's a powerful,
steep chop that
must go down and through the thick stuff. Be sure to keep the club
accelerating
through impact; otherwise you'll risk moving the ball only a few
feet. The faster
you can get the club moving through the ball, the faster that ball
will climb out of
its nest and the farther it will go.
Eventually, you’ll be close enough to chip.
CHIPPING
This is the part of golf that many golfers have the most trouble
with.
Because chipping requires a bit of finesse, it’s much easier to
flub a shot or
overshoot the hole. There are some good techniques you can use
when chipping
the ball up onto the green.
There are two parts to a successful short game: the plan and the
execution.
The plan is simply defining your shot before you play it. You
should determine
where you plan to land the ball and how far it will roll. The plan
should include
landing the ball on the green whenever possible and playing the
best percentage
shot. The best percentage shot is usually the one that is simplest
to execute.
Since you are hitting the ball a shorter distance than with a full
swing, you
should choke up on the club, narrow your stance, and stand closer
to the ball.
Picture the shot you're about to play and make a practice swing to
approximate
the swing you'll need. The club should be swung with arms and
shoulders, with
some wrist break. The key to shots around the green is to
"keep the arms
moving".
As with other golf shots, picking the right club is essential to
an effective
chip. First of all, chip shots are essentially those played from
right off the green.
Most are otherwise known as "bump and runs." Don't
confuse them with pitches,
which are lofted shots with a sand-wedge.
Many of us have been taught over the years to get the ball on the
green as
soon as possible and let it roll to the hole. There is nothing
wrong with this. This is
fine.
The issue of concern, however, is when golfers go about playing
different
length of chips with an assortment of clubs. They hit a 9-iron if
the flag is 20 feet
away, 8-iron thirty feet, 7-iron forty feet, etc. You should
really just choose ONE
club to hit all of your "bump and runs" with, and adjust
for the distance with the
force of your swing.
It can be a 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, wedge, or sand wedge. It doesn't matter
that much.
A great player, Phil Mickelson, likes to use his sand wedge in
just about every
case. He will play it far back in his stance, with his hands way
ahead to bump it.
On the other hand, Corey Pavin often uses a 5-iron around the
green. He just
"taps" it and the ball goes scurrying across the green
with a lot of topspin.
These are extremes, however. You should pick a 7, 8, or 9-iron. I,
personally,
like to use a 9-iron for chipping. I know how the ball is going to
come off of the
club because that's the one I practice with all the time. I have
tried using a 7-iron
on longer chips, but the ball seems to explode off the club face
because I am not
sure the proper force that I need to use.
The art of chipping is hard enough without having to master four
or five
clubs. Practice with a couple at first. You should hit short
"bump and runs" from
the fringe and then longer "bump and runs" from in front
of the green.
From there, decide which one you like better, which one you can
control the
spin better with, and ultimately which one that you can control
the distance better
with. Then, put the other one in the bag, and practice with the
one you chose.
Master this one club approach and your chipping will improve
dramatically.
You will want most of your weight to be focused on your lead foot.
For right
handers, that would be the left foot. Your swing should be in a
pendulum motion
with no wrist action. If you break your wrists on a chip shot,
your ball is going to
shoot to one side or you may overshoot the hole altogether.
As we’ve said, you often won’t want to take a full swing when
chipping.
Gauge the distance you are away from the hole and then estimate
how hard you’ll
have to hit the ball to get it to the hole – or at least close to
the hole!
Here are some general tips on chipping that can really help:
Keep your hands ahead of, or even with, the club head on
the followthrough.
Grip the club firmly so that the rough doesn't twist the
club on the swing.
Get the ball rolling on the green as soon as possible;
this will make it easier
to control the shot
In deep rough, angle the club so the toe is the only part
touching the
ground.
In windy or downhill conditions, or on fast greens, always
chip the ball
instead of pitching it.
Repair all divots taken.
Be careful not to hit the ball too hard; otherwise it
might roll off the other
side of the green.
Chipping should not be confused with pitching. When you chip a
ball, you
are going to be just off the green and you want the ball to easily
roll across the
green and toward your target. A pitch shot is a lofted shot that
flies more than it
rolls. A pitch is usually used when you are a little further off
the green but you
still are close enough that you won’t want to take a full golf swing.
A pitch shot is usually from 30-70 yards away from the green. You
can also
use a pitch shot if you need to hit above trees, hazards, or sand
traps.
Use a lofted wedge club like a sand wedge, a pitching wedge, or a
lob
wedge. These clubs have faces that allow you to get underneath the
ball and put
it in the air.
You will want an open stance with your feet closer together. The
ball should
be positioned in the center of the stance. Your body turn will be
determined by
the size of the swing. Focus about 70 percent of your weight on
your lead foot.
You will have to modify your backswing according to the distance
you have
to go to the hole. It can be waist high, shoulder high, or a full
swing. Just don’t
put too much power into it or you will overshoot the green. Let
your legs and
body turn slightly through the shot.
As with any shot, your aim should be to present the clubface
perfectly
square to the target. But this is even more important with the
pitch, as any minor
deviations will be magnified by such an intense shot. Aim for a
ball then turf
contact. If you are regularly thinning the ball when attempting
this shot, you are
probably not accelerating into it.
Once on the green, you’ll want to putt effectively. There’s
nothing more
frustrating than taking more putts than what you need to.
PUTTING
Again, many golfers have trouble with their putting. I know of one
experienced golfer who can consistently drive the ball 250 to 300
yards only to get
on the green and three putt. Nothing frustrates him more, but
putting is an
important part of your golf game – possibly THE most important
part.
Stroking the ball is only one part of putting. To putt
effectively, you first
need to know how to read a green. That means looking at the
trajectory your ball
will travel and compensate for any dips, hills, or anything else
that could cause
your ball to move a specific way.
Good green reading comes with experience. After hitting enough
putts over
enough different types of terrain and grass, you develop a sixth
sense of how the
ball will roll. As you walk onto a green, whether you realize it
or not, you take in
all sorts of subtle information.
If the green appears light, you know you're putting against the
grain; if it's
dark you're down grain. If the green is set on a high area of the
course and you
feel a breeze as you step onto it, you sense that the putt will be
fast. Even if you
don't look closely at the surrounding terrain, you are aware of
any major slope in
the land.
Without having to tell yourself, you know which the low side of
the green is
and which the high is. If the putting surface is hard and crusty
under foot, you
receive one message; if it's soft and spongy you get another.
Experience with
many, many putts allows you to run this data through your computer
before you
even mark your ball.
The most elusive aspect of green reading has to do with the grain.
Grain
refers to the direction in which the blades of grass grow. The
light/dark
appearance is one way to read it. Another method you can use is to
take your
putter blade and scrape it across a patch of fringe. If the blades
of grass brush up,
you're scraping against the grain. If they mat down, you're
scraping with it.
(Incidentally, be sure to do this scraping on the fringe. On the
greens, it's against
Rule 35-1f.)
A third method is to take a look at the cup. Often, the blades of
grass will
grow over the edge of the cup in the direction in which the grain
moves.
Incidentally, grain usually grows toward water, especially toward
the ocean, and in
the East it's apt to lean toward the mountains. If you're not near
any such
topography, figure on the grain growing in the direction of the
setting sun.
Grain is strongest on Bermuda grass, where short, crew-cut-like
blades tend
to push the ball strongly. Although each putt on each green is
different, as a
general rule you can figure on stroking the ball about 20 percent
harder than usual
on a putt that's dead into the grain, and about 20 percent less on
a down grain
putt.
When the ball breaks with the grain, you need to read-in extra
"borrow" on
the putt. When the slope is against the grain, play for less
break. These effects are
less marked on the long-stemmed bent and other strains of grass,
but they are
present nonetheless.
The break of your putt will also be affected by the firmness of a
green, the
wetness/dryness, the amount of wind you're facing, and even the
time of day. In
general, any time you have to hit the ball hard, you play for less
break.
Another way of reading the break on a green is to watch the way other
players' putts behave. I'm all for this "going to
school," but with one caveat: Allow
for any difference between your own playing style and those of
your fellow players.
If, for instance, your friend is a lagger and you're a charger,
don't play as much
break as he does.
Finally, one hard and fast rule in putting is this: Never hit the
ball until you
have a good vision of the path on which it will roll. Sometimes
the vision will come
to you immediately. You'll see the perfect putt the minute you
step up to it, and
more often than not, you'll sink it just as you saw it.
Other times, it will take much longer to get a picture of the
putt, and even
then you won't be comfortable. But don't make your stroke until
you have the best
read you can get. You have to believe in your line if you want to
have a good
chance of sinking any putt.
If the green is located near water, you can bet the ball is going
to break
towards that body of water. I’m not sure why this is, but it is
certainly true.
It’s essential that you know you shouldn’t be aiming for the hole.
Good
putters know that you have to pick a spot on the green and then
aim for that spot.
For example, if you think the ball will break three inches to the
right, pick a spot
three inches to the left and shoot at that spot.
Don’t think of a putt as a curved shot – think of every putt as
being straight
on. When you have your spot, aim to have the ball travel right
over that spot. If
you have read the green correctly, the ball will naturally travel
into the hole.
Don’t rush reading a green. Take a look at how your ball lies from
all angles.
Walk around it; look at it from across the pin to see the
trajectory that the ball
needs to travel at. But have respect for your fellow golfers. Don’t
take forever
reading a green. It’s not rocket science and you won’t want to
hold up play.
Keep in mind that the line of the putt has little to do with being
able to put
the ball in the hole. Good putting depends on the speed of the
ball when it leaves
your putter’s face. But achieving that speed can be quite elusive.
There’s no easy
way to judge how hard you need to hit the ball to get good speed.
However, there
is something you can do.
Go to the practice putting green. Hit several putts with about a
12-inch
backswing. Do this over and over until you can get a good idea of
how far the ball
will go with that 12-inch backswing. Then when you get on the real
green, you
can use that putt as a reference to determine how much you will
have to add or
take away from your backswing to sink the putt.
The way you grip your putter can make a difference in accurate
putting as
well. You can choose what’s best for you, but most professional
golfers know that
gripping a driver and gripping a putter should be two different
animals.
You will want complete control of your putter for the most
accuracy. One
technique that can help you do this is to modify your grip so that
both of your
index fingers are extending down either side of the shaft and your
thumbs are
placed together on the top of the shaft. This can help you guide
your putter
smoothly and improve your accuracy.
When in your stance, you need to be positioned directly over the
ball. I like
to call this hovering the putt because you are hovering over the
ball like a mother
hovers over her children. Set the putter square to the target and
have the ball
positioned right in the middle of the club face – which most
people refer to as the
“sweet spot”.
Keep your body free of tension and your body motion limited. When
you
swing, you should do so in a pendulum-like motion using your
shoulders not your
hips. Always follow through with your putt and accelerate through
the ball. Your
follow through should be about the same distance as your pull back
motion and
you need to keep your eyes on the ball at all times.
And most golfers know that if you are faced with either an uphill
putt or a
downhill put, you should always go with the uphill choice. A
downhill putt is much
more complicated because of gravity whereas when you putt uphill,
you can gain
more control of your stroke.
Good putting is essential to a good golf game, so practice as much
as you
can and try to be consistent in all you do.
SAND TRAPS
Ah, those fairway bunkers – the golfer’s bane. Sand traps are a
reality on
many courses, and you will probably find yourself having to shoot
out of them on a
fairly regular basis. Although we certainly hope that’s not the
case, it certainly is
possible. Knowing how to effectively hit out of a sand trap is
another huge part of
a good golf game.
First, don’t be afraid of the bunker shot. Sure, it can be
intimidating, but
you can develop good technique that will get you out of the sand
and back on the
grass – even on the green.
Establish firm footing and take an open stance. Open the clubface
by
turning it to the outside before hitting the ball. This will put
loft on the ball and
allow the back portion of the bottom of the club to bounce off the
sand instead of
having the leading edge dig into the sand. You will want to use a
wedge for this
shot – preferably a sand wedge.
Distribute most of your weight to the left side of your body. You
will swing
the club back and through the same distance. Don’t let the
clubface close and
accelerate through the ball. Don’t let the club touch the sand (a
big rules no-no)
and concentrate on hitting the sand about two inches behind the
ball.
What you are trying to do is take as little sand as possible
without making
contact with the ball. You want the sand to life the ball out of
the bunker. As you
make contact with the sand there should be a cupping of the left
wrist.
Let me explain "cupping." Assume you are wearing a watch
on your left wrist
and the face, as usual, is pointing outward. When contacting the
sand on the
forward swing, you should try to take the back of your left hand
and move it
towards your watch face, thereby creating wrinkles underneath your
left wrist.
This action is called "cupping of the wrist" and it is
very necessary in
producing quality sand shots. Since this motion prevents the club
from closing, the
ball is lifted in the air with backspin.
You will want to have a neutral grip on the club. You don't want
to use a
strong grip for bunker shots because it's absolutely essential
that the club face
slides under the ball and into your finish without the club face
closing.
A neutral grip is one that has the back of the left hand facing
parallel to the
target line and the right palm facing the same direction. Slap
your hands together
in front of you and you'll instantly see what I mean. You can also
choke down on
the club in an effort to gain more control.
Aim the club face down the target line which should be just left
of the hole.
You've heard all the hype about opening the club face and such and
that's fine if
you hit a lot of bunker shots but most folks don't so aim the club
face down the
target line which should be just left of the hole. The target should
be just left of
the hole because this method will impart some left to right spin
which will move
the ball from left to right once it gets on the ground.
Aim your feet on a 20-30 degree angle to the left of the target
line. The
greater the angle you create between your feet and the target
line, the higher and
softer the ball will come out of the trap. Practice these shots a
bit with varying
angles and you'll see what I mean. Find the angle where you're
most comfortable
and which produces the best results and stick with it whatever it
might be.
This all works for balls that are lying on top of the sand, but
what do you do
if your ball is buried? The technique is different.
When your ball is buried (fried egg) in the bunker, you do not
want to swing
super long and follow through. The idea is to pick your sand wedge
up abruptly,
swing down steep, stick your club in the sand, and leave it there.
What will happen
is your ball will pop out. It won't have any spin on it because of
the lie, but the
chance of it getting out of the sand are much better than if you
were to follow
through.
Why is this so...? You want a very steep angle of attack and no
follow
through on this shot because it allows for the club to get more
underneath the
ball. With some of the ball resting below the surface, you need to
compensate to
get underneath it. That is where a short, steep, punchy type of
swing works best.
A typical bunker shot calls for an open stance, an open clubface,
and a nice
shallow swing while taking a little bit of sand. That will not
work with a plugged lie,
regardless of how hard you swing. Your club will be approaching
from too shallow
an angle.
You will hit the sand to the RIGHT of the ball, instead of hitting
the sand
UNDERNEATH the ball. Thus, your club will just bounce, or deflect
into the ball.
Worse yet, you will plow too much sand into the back of ball and
it will go
nowhere. You need to get below the ball somehow.
Here's what I recommend from a buried lie in a greenside bunker:
1. Set up with a bit squarer stance.
2. Square the clubface a bit also. This will allow for the leading
edge to enter
the sand first.
3. Pick the club up steeper, and then swing down steeper and stick
the club in
the ground. Hit about 1-3 inches behind the ball. You can swing hard,
just
don't follow through. You won't be able to follow through if you
make the
correct swing, because you will be coming down too steep. That's
good!
This is not a shot that you will face a lot, but I still think it
is worth practicing.
Go to a practice trap and step on a couple balls to bury them a
little. Then hit
some shots. Experiment a bit. Especially get the feeling of that
up and down
"chopping" motion, and that no follow through release.
By doing so, you will find
that this shot is not really that hard to get out of the bunker.
After a round of golf while socializing in the '19th Hole', you
will always hear
"I hit the ball well but didn't score." The object of
the game of golf is to score the
lowest possible score you can. How you can hit the ball well and
not score can be
summed up in two words: course management.
COURSE MANAGEMENT
You can ruin a good round by trying to pull off that one in a
million shot and
making a triple bogey. After hitting a shot into trouble you are
almost always
better off to take a safe route out and play for a bogey.
What exactly is course management? Essentially, it means adapting
your
game to the specific nuances of the course and playing the course
in the best way
you can to achieve a good score.
When does course management start? Some players will tell you it
starts
after they have to make a decision on the course. Nothing could be
further from
the truth. Course management starts before you tee off on the
first hole. You
should always have a plan for the round you are playing and more
importantly you
should always have a plan and a target for each and every shot.
One particular area that most all golfers should concentrate on is
hitting the
ball from 125-150 yards out to the green. By improving your game
in this area
you'll give yourself many more chances for birdie and par putts.
The key to this aspect of your game is being able to
"know" that you can hit
the ball onto any green from 150 yards out. You want to get to the
point where
you can consistently knock on 8 or 9 iron onto the green every
time!
It may sound difficult if you're a higher handicap golfer, but
it's really not.
125 -150 yards is very manageable, and most greens are large in
size. In addition,
hitting 8 and 9 irons are much easier to control than your longer
irons.
If you have a tough time swinging these clubs then this is an area
where you
need to spend some quality practice time on. Once you do get this
down, the only
part left is distance management.
That's the first key. The next point is working your game around
the 150
yard shot.
If you're on a 550 yard par 5, you know if you hit a decent drive
and even if
you hit your second shot poorly, leaving you with 135 yards to the
green, you
know you can now get it on the green with your third shot.
So, even though you didn't hit a great second shot, because you
have the
150 yard shot in your bag you're still putting for birdie. This is
what good course
management is all about.
It's amazing what focusing on this part of your game can do for
you. You'll
see your golf game differently. Now you'll know that no matter
what kind of
trouble you get into off the tee box, all you need to do is get
your ball 135-150
yards out and you'll be fine.
Practice until you can master this shot. Then build your golf game
with that
thought in place. By doing so, you won't be worrying as much on
how to hit
bunker shots, chips shots and other tough greenside shots.
Instead of being completely frustrated, you'll find yourself
having more fun.
Once you have this shot in your bag, then you can focus on
putting, driving,
or hitting your long irons. Until then, put all your efforts into
mastering the
125-150 yard shot. If you will take this advice I can honestly
tell you that you will
dramatically lower your golf scores.
You have to know what your strengths and weaknesses are on the
golf
course. This is essential to the principles of course management.
You must know
how far you can hit the ball with specific clubs in order to
navigate the course in as
few shots as possible.
When you are managing the course, you are taking into account the
problems and strengths of your game and applying them to the way
the course is
laid out. Let’s look at two examples:
1. You are on a par 5 hole with light rough on the left side of
the fairway and a
lateral water hazard up the right. You’re pretty confident you can
hit the
green in regulation, but you have a propensity for hitting a “banana
ball” or
a hard slice. How should you hit this shot taking into
consideration the way
you play?
Most players would just hit it up the middle trying to hit the
ball straight
hoping to keep the water out of play. However, that water hazard
is the
hole’s strength and your slice is your weakness. It’s foolish to
pit the two
against each other because you will probably be the loser.
Aim your teen shot to land in the rough on the left side of the
fairway. In
this case, your normal slice will result in a second shot from the
fairway
while a straight ball will result in a second shot from the rough.
However,
you will probably still be able to reach the green in regulation
from the
rough.
Most fairways are at least 40 yards wide. If you aim 10 yards to
the left of
the fairway, it would take a 50 yard slice to get the ball to the
water. A shot
with that much curve is rare, so this is definitely the best way
to play this
hole.
2. You are 150 yards from the green with the pin placed at the
front of the
green, but the pin is tucked behind a menacing sand trap. You’ve
spent a lot
of time practicing getting out of the sand and on the green in one
shot, but
you’re not confident enough in your ability to do it just yet.
Your 150-yard
club is an 8 iron. What do you do to try and avoid landing in the
bunker?
Most golfers would automatically reach for their 8 iron, and “take
dead aim”.
However if you were to play with sound course strategy, you would
take a 7
iron and aim for the middle back of the green leaving a straight
forward two
putt for par.
Most people would be afraid of going over the green, but you know
that your
7 iron goes a maximum of 165 yards. Even if you hits your best
shot you will
still have a 45 foot putt for birdie. You also know that if you
miss hit the 7
iron it will wind up pin high and in almost no circumstance will
the dreaded
bunker be in play.
On the other hand if you choose the 8 iron, it will require a near
perfect
strike to get the ball to the flag. The slightest miss hit results
in your ball
landing in the sand trap. Here, the 7-iron is the right club based
on the
layout of the hole.
Putting course management into play with your golf game requires a
good
working knowledge of the way you play and what you are capable of
doing. That
means you need to track your progress and really pay attention to
how your game
is coming along.
Course management skills can really help shave strokes off of your
score.
So can knowing what the most common mistakes and problems golfers
have along
with ways to combat them.
COMMON PROBLEMS WITH A SWING
As we’ve said numerous times, golf is not an exact science. Many
golfers
have worked for years and years trying to perfect their swing and
improve their
game. However, problems do arise. They come about mostly because
golfers
tend to forget the basic mechanics of the game and start playing
sloppy.
In this section, we’ll address some of the more common problems
golfers
have along with mistakes they make. We’ll also offer up some
suggestions to help
you combat these problems and get on the road toward playing
better golf.
The Slice
A slice is a specific left-to-right trajectory shape for a golf
ball created by a
significant tilt of the spin-axis of the golf ball to the right,
or a clockwise spin. This
is opposite for lefties. A slice usually ends up right of the
target line, and the term
is often used when the curve in the trajectory is extreme and
unintentional. The
less extreme version of a slice is called a "fade".
In understanding the basics of the golf swing, in order to hit the
ball
squarely and straight every time, you must return to the original
spot at impact. A
slice is caused by the club face being slightly open at the point
of impact, thus
causing the ball to spin in a clockwise motion, (opposite for lefties).
In most cases
the swing path is correct, but the golf ball is not being hit
squarely at the point of
impact, commonly caused by what is known as a "weak
grip".
A second factor that causes a golf slice may be swing speed and
shaft
stiffness. If you use a stiff shaft driver try a regular flex or
mid flex shaft and that
may correct your problem.
The simplest fix for a slice is in the grip. By having a
"weak grip", a grip that
is turned more counter-clockwise, (opposite for lefties), can
cause the club face to
open at the time of impact.
You should start by turning your grip slightly to the right, (left
for lefties),
thus giving you a "stronger grip", not holding the club
more tightly. Remember the
basics and only hold the club tight enough to keep control. You
should not have
any tension on your wrist and forearms.
You may want to try increasing your swing speed by pulling the
club farther
back before swinging to fix your golf slice. When you increase
your swing speed
you can gain yardage and will hit the fairways more often.
Make sure not to bend over too far or round house your swing
similar to a
baseball swing. Bring your club back straight and follow through
on the swing.
Point the label on the ball in the direction you want it to go
when teeing it
up. This way you can concentrate on the ball without looking up.
Then, when you tee up your ball, follow this checklist faithfully:
Stand Straighter
Bend Knees Slightly
Keep Feet Shoulder Width
Line Up Ball with Front Foot
Tip the Club Face in Just a Bit
Loosen Your Grip
Keep Your Eye on the Ball
Clear Your Mind
Now Hit the Fairway
Draw/Fade
The less extreme version of a Hook is called a "Draw",
and the less extreme
version of a slice is called a "Fade". Many golfers find
that they are only having a
draw or fade with their longer clubs, and they are very accurate
with their shorter
clubs.
Both the draw and the fade are both products of a stronger swing
and can
be normal. Many golfers use the fade and the draw to their
advantage. Slight
modifications to your swing will correct both problems, but be
careful; tampering
with perfection could lead to disaster.
If you are consistent with the fade or the draw, my advice would
be to
continue to play either shot, just slightly change your aim. If
you are inconsistent
in your shots and you sometimes fade, draw, slice or hook, look
into getting back
to the basics and modify your swing to correct your
inconsistencies.
Hook
A hook is a specific right-to-left trajectory shape for a golf
ball created by a
significant tilt of the spin-axis of the golf ball to the left, or
a counter-clockwise
spin. This is opposite for lefties. A hook usually ends up to the
left of the target
line, and the term is often used when the curve in the trajectory
is extreme and
unintentional. The less extreme version of a hook is called a
"draw".
In understanding the basics of the golf swing, in order to hit the
ball
squarely and straight every time, you must return to the original
spot at impact. A
hook is caused by the club face being slightly closed at the point
of impact, thus
causing the ball to spin in a counter-clockwise motion, (opposite
for lefties). In
most cases the swing path is correct, but the golf ball is not
being hit squarely at
the point of impact, commonly caused by what is known as a
"strong grip".
As in the slice, the hook is often a product of an improper grip.
Start by
looking at your current grip. Remembering the basics of the golf grip,
you should
only see 2 knuckles of your left hand. If you see 3 knuckles, then
you have a
"strong grip" and this maybe the cause of your golf
hook.
You can fix your hook by trying to change your grip to a
"weak grip". Turn
your hands slightly counter-clockwise on your grip, (opposite for
lefties), thus
weakening the grip. Grip pressure is also a key element in the
release process. If
the pressure is too loose at impact then the tendency will for the
club to release
too early causing the ball to hook.
Remember the basics and only hold the club tight enough to keep
control.
You should not have any tension on your wrist and forearms.
Practice the grip and
check your results. Changing your grip should be slight, over
compensating can
cause other problems with your swing or begin to cause you to
slice.
Most golf hooks are from a "strong grip", but in order
for you to correct your
hook properly; you must have the know-how and learn the basics of
the golf
swing.
Push
A push is a ball that goes directly to the right because of the
action of the
club. This should not be mistaken for a slice. A slice is an
action of the ball
spinning clockwise. A slice normally begins to the target and arcs
away to the
right, (left for lefties). A push is an action of the swing and is
normally in an in-toout
swing motion. The opposite of the push is the pull, which is an
out-to-in swing
motion.
The push is caused by the swing path of the club. In the down
swing, the
path of the club will travel in an in-to-out path. Normally this is
caused by
throwing your arms ahead of your shoulders, being too close to the
ball, and trying
to over compensate your swing to make contact with the ball, or
having your hips
ahead of the impact area. These are the easiest to identify, but
there could be
other reasons.
The easiest way to fix a push is to go back to the basics of the
golf swing.
The push is directly related to the action of the golf swing.
Throwing your arms
ahead of your shoulders, make sure that during your back swing,
you push your
arms out with your shoulders, and on the down swing, you pull your
arms down
with your shoulders.
At the point of impact you should be back to the same point as you
were at
your stance. Standing too close to the ball, check out your
stance. The club face
should be positioned center of the ball and the butt end of the
club should be
about 4-5 inches from the inside of the left thigh and in line
with it.
Having your hips ahead of the impact area, again, you should
remember to
be exactly the same at the point of impact as you were at your
stance. The push
comes from an improper club swing and knowing the basics.
Shank
The shank is a missed hit ball off the club face. Other ways that
a ball can be
missed hit include topping, whiffing, blading, dubbed, or fat shot.
All of these miss
hits are the product of only a few things;
Not keeping your head down through your swing.
Standing too close or too far from the ball.
Improper Club Grip.
Improper Swing Dynamics.
A shank is something that nobody wants to have happen to them. A
shank is
normally a product of not concentrating. Slow down, remember the
basics, keep
your head down, and concentrate on the shot at hand. The shank is
one of the
easiest fixable problems in golf.
Remember your training and get back to the basics. By getting back
to the
basics of golf, and learning the correct grip or proper stance,
and using the proper
swing technique will help in eliminating all of the problems with
miss hitting the
ball.
Those are the most common problems golfers find with their swing.
There
are also some very common mistakes that golfers make.
COMMON MISTAKES
It’s difficult sometimes to hit a good golf shot. Some of us hack
away at a
ball hoping that we can get off a good shot and be proud at least
for a few
moments. But if we know what the most common mistakes are in the
golf game,
we can take steps to correct those mistakes and extend that pride
throughout our
game.
The Exaggerated Twist
Most people believe that the more they turn their backswing, the
more distance
they will gain. This is simply not true. Actually, to gain
distance, you need to find
the perfect posture and perform a fluid swing that will insure
solid contact with the
ball. If you exaggerate the twist, you will go out of the ideal
swing plane and have
to over-compensate to even make contact. Plus, the chances of
coming out with a
slice, a hook, or even topping the ball are much greater.
Rolling Hands
This is a common mistake and one that feels OK as you are doing
it. As the
backswing progresses the club gets too far inside and behind you
and the clubface
is open, facing the sky. To finish the backswing you will lift the
arms and put the
club in a steep and weak position, maybe even getting it across
the line.
If this is your mistake, you need to monitor how much the left
wrist rotates
early in the swing. Take the club back to waist high and allow
only 90 degrees of
rotation, so the back of your left wrist is parallel to your body
line and the shaft is
in line with your toes. The toe of the club should be almost
vertical.
Disconnecting Arms
Many players begin the swing by pushing the hands out toward the
ball and
moving the left arm away from the body. As the handle moves out
the club head
moves inward, getting it inside and behind. The rest of the
backswing is similar to
the previous move.
The fix here is to keep your left arm connected to your left chest
and moving
across as the swing progresses. Visualize your hands tracking back
with your body
rotation, rather than moving out.
Picking the Club Up
If all you use to begin the takeaway are hands and arms, you will
surely pick it
up and chop it back down. The golf swing is a synchronized blend
of club, hands,
arms, and body movements, and they need to start together. If you
are a picker,
make sure the core begins to rotate as the club is put in motion
by your hands and
arms.
Club Head Starts Outside
The opposite of rolling the hands, this is often the result of
trying for maximum
extension or an overdone one-piece takeaway. Once your club is
outside and
above the plane, it must loop back under to get back on plane.
Lee Trevino perfected this move, and Jim Furyk is pretty good at
it as well.
But it is not something the average player can do consistently.
Eliminate the
exaggeration and work the club head back and up your plane line.
Standing Upright
Too many golfers stand too upright at address. Instead, their
spine should be bent
forward from the hip sockets until their arms hang freely. Players
should also tilt
their spine from 3-to-9 degrees on their trailside. This defines
the starting move
and helps you reach the 90-degree rotation needed for your upper
trunk at the top
of your backswing.
Two things derive from this trailside tilt: 1. it lowers your
trail hand so that
you can easily grip the club without stretching your trail arm or
shortening your
target arm. That way, you will not be inclined to move your trail
shoulder, so that it
points out towards your target; 2. It also puts your torso in a
proper position to
begin your swing.
A Bad Stance
The position you want to achieve at address is the well-known
"railroad track" in
which your feet, hips and shoulders form a line parallel to the
target. That parallel
line must be directed to the side of your actual target.
Most golfers do not achieve this setup and otherwise find
themselves in poor
address positions. That is because they step into the ball with
their eyes on their
feet or on the ball and the club. The end result is they
mistakenly step toward the
target, which forces them into a closed position at address.
Imagine when looking down the line of flight while stepping into
your address
position that your focus is keyed on a large tree left of the
target. Now, draw an
imaginary line from that tree back to your feet/hips/shoulders, so
that they are
parallel to your target line.
When hitting a short iron, align your feet/hips/shoulders directly
to the tree.
With middle irons, the alignment is a little to the side of the
tree. For a driver, the
alignment is farther to the side to allow for the optical illusion
that makes your
target appear smaller.
Here are some things to keep in mind when addressing the ball:
Widen your stance when using a driver, so that the width
measured
from the center of your feet is equal to the outside of your
shoulders.
The width becomes proportionately less and less as the club gets
shorter. That way, your ankles are under your shoulder joints.
Close your stance a little, with your trail foot pulled
back a little more
from the target line than your target foot. This is important,
especially
if you lack flexibility. You can do this with all clubs, even your
wedge.
It makes the rotation of the upper trunk to 90 degrees that much
easier.
The base of your sternum (center of your chest) should be
pointing
directly at the ball, so that your trail arm moves most
effectively and
stays below the target arm at the start of the swing and until it
folds.
Golf is a stability sport. Distribute your weight from the
balls of your
feet to your heels, but not to your toes.
Golfers tend to stand with knees that are too straight. Be
sure there is
some flex in your knees, so you can use your joints properly. In
essence, sit back with your hips out behind you in a skeletally
balanced position.
Skulling or Topping the Ball
When you skull the ball, your club is coming over the top of it
and you will
end up hitting it “fat”. It won’t go very far, if at all, and you’re
likely to be a little
embarrassed at your mistake. Don’t worry; a lot of inexperienced
golfers top the
ball. There is a fix for it as well.
Put your weight in the middle, the golf handle left, weight on
your left side,
swing the arms up and swing the arms down in the downswing.
Up/down makes
the golf ball go up.
Hitting the ball fat is caused by the club being too vertical. If
you go too
vertical, you'll wind up chopping the floor.
After you get all set up, make sure you're not leaning too far
over on the left
side. A little weight on your left side is alright, but the trick
is to swing the golf
club up on the inside. And that will give the golf club a little
better angle into the
back of the ball.
Be sure that you are looking at the ball and that you don’t rise
up before you
make contact. Standing up on the ball prior to the swing is the
number one
reason for skulling the ball.
Many beginners are eager to see where their ball is going after it
is hit, but
they look too soon and take their eyes off of the ball. This can
also cause you to
top the ball, so be sure to look at that little white ball until
you hear it whooshing
through the air. Then you can watch it land beautifully.
Chipping Problems
When you are chipping, a common problem that many golfers face is
restricting your swing while chipping, not getting enough loft, or
easing into the
ball. To cure this, you should shorten the stroke instead of
restricting your swing
and don’t ease into the ball.
Make a short backstroke and use a less lofted club if you feel the
need
restrict your backswing. Make a long follow through to allow for
the necessary
acceleration. Divots are not necessary, so hit down and through so
you strike the
ball with a slightly descending blow. You are likely playing the
ball too far forward
if you do not hear a click when chipping. The ball should be
positioned just before
the bottom part of your stroke.
Reaching out at the ball during address and impact, a player’s
arms are
almost at a 45-degree angle from the ground. It takes too much
effort to hold
your arms out at address and therefore it’s even harder to get
back to that
position at impact.
To fix this problem, refer to the posture where the arms just hang
in the
natural position. If you feel like your hands are too close to the
body then make
the adjustment and kick out your rear end a little (check your
weight distribution).
The distance between your zipper and your grip should be around
four knuckles.
Find a picture of a professional golfer and by using a straight
edge notice
how their eyes are over the shaft (approximately over the shaft
label).You may
have to bow more to get to that position
Another big mistake is made when referring to ball position. Some
players
believe they need to change the position of the ball based on what
club they are
using. If the ball is played too far back in the stance, your
shoulders will aim right
and you will start the back swing from the inside and probably
come over the top
at impact (slice or pull). If the ball is too far forward, your
shoulder will be aiming
left and you will take the club more on the outside and loop under
coming down
resulting in a block or a hook.
To fix this problem, the ball position should be played one ball
forward of
center for short to mid-irons, two balls left of center with long
irons and fairway
woods, three balls left of center with the driver. This may vary a
little based on
your swing arch.
Here’s a drill to help you with this problem. Take your swing with
the proper
stance and posture and see where your club hits the ground. You
should notice
that it’s very close to the left center. If you are hitting the
ground way before the
ball, there’s a good chance you are not pivoting your hips or
coming out of your
stance.
So those are some of the more common mistakes made by golfers.
Even if
you’ve been golfing for years, you can still fall prey to these
mistakes. Knowing
how to fix them can be a great addition to your game and will
eventually shave
strokes off your score.
There are some shots in golf that will require some finesse in
getting out of
without amassing your score to new proportions. Let’s look at a
few trouble shots
and get some advice on how to overcome them.
TROUBLE SHOTS
Because golf is such a complicated – yet easy – game, you may find
yourself
in some situations that seem impossible to get out of. We call
these trouble shots.
They can be frustrating and can add to your score in record proportions.
Here are
some trouble shots we’ve encountered and ways that you can
approach them.
Deep Rough
Long grass has the effect of closing the face of the club and
decreasing the
loft of the club. For this reason, the player should use a more
lofted club than if
the ball were in the fairway. If a player has a long distance
left, the first
consideration should be getting the ball out of the rough. Use of
lofted fairway
woods #5, #6, #7 is advisable in this situation.
The long grass will decrease the loft of these clubs and the ball
will actually
go the distance of the less lofted fairway woods. Around the
green, the player
must again use a more lofted club. These types of shots are custom
made for a
wedge or a 9-iron. The effect of the long green will once again
decrease the loft of
the club. The ball will therefore fly lower and run more than if
it were in the
fairway. Remember; allow the loft of the club to lift the ball out
of the rough!
Side hill, Downhill, and Uphill Lies
Nothing can be more frustrating than having a golf shot on a
slanted
surface. The way many golf courses are laid out, you will probably
have to deal
with a lie like this at some point in your game. But you can deal
with hilly lies with
no problems and a little advice.
Take a practice swing and note where the club is striking the
ground. If the
club is striking the ground nearer the back foot, move the ball
back in your stance;
if the club is striking the ground nearer the front foot, move the
ball forward in
your stance. This system is the most accurate system to determine
where the ball
should be placed in the stance. Seldom does a player have a purely
side hill or
uphill lie. This system takes all the factors into account as the
practice swing is the
forerunner to the actual shot.
The general rule of thumb is to position the ball in the stance
nearer the
higher foot on the downhill lies, and about center on the uphill
lies. On side hill
lies, position the ball left center (as you normally would). If
the ball is above your
feet on the side hill lie, you will normally hit the ball straight
or pull it to the left. If
the ball is below your feet, most players will actually pull the
ball to the left
because their leg action will slow down as they try to maintain
their balance.
You will want to have a longer club than you would usually use for
an uphill
shot (a 4 instead of a 5). Choke down on the club and put more
flex in your left
knee (if you are right handed). Much of your weight should be on
your front leg.
Remember that the ball will generally go to the left, so aim to
the right of the
target. Position the ball slightly ahead of center and swing in a
slow deliberate
way maintaining your balance.
For downhill lies, you will want a shorter club than you would
normally use
(a 6 instead of a 5). The ball will go right, so aim to the left
of the target. Position
the ball so that it is back in your stance. Put most of your
weight again on the
forward foot. Have some flex in your right knee and then swing
slowly and
deliberately maintaining your balance.
Side hill shots are probably some of the worst in golf. If you are
faced with a
side hill shot where the ball is below your feet, you will need a
longer club than
you would usually use. Set up closer to the ball when you address
it and increase
the flex in both of your knees. The ball will go to the right, so
aim left of the
target and, again, maintain your balance with a slow, deliberate
backswing.
When the ball is above your feet on a side hill shot, the stance
is slightly
different. You will still want a longer club than usual, but you
will choke down on
the shaft. Stand more upright and put more weight on your toes.
The ball will go
left, so aim right of the target and maintain a slow and
deliberate backswing as
you should be doing in all hill shots.
Restricted Back Swing
There are times when you will have a shot that will restrict your
back swing.
Let’s say that your ball ends up next to a tree. You won’t be able
to take a normal
back swing because the tree is in the way. You will have to make
some
modifications in order to get yourself out of this trouble shot.
Luckily, it’s not as
difficult as you might think.
First position yourself so that you can get to the ball and still
aim at your
target. Practice a couple of backswings to see how far you can
take the club back
without bringing the tree into play. Then keep that distance first
and foremost in
your mind. You will need to cock your wrists and keep them cocked
throughout
whatever backswing you will be able to muster up.
Make a normal down swing, knowing that the club has room to miss
the tree
trunk and you will advance the ball into scoring position. The
idea here is to just
get away from the tree completely so you’re not worrying about
distance or even
accuracy for that matter. All you want to do is get the ball back
in the fairway so
you can save your score.
Hitting Out of Water
The main rule of thumb when you have a ball in water is to just
let it be and
not try to hit out of it. However, if it truly is playable in
shallow water, you may
want to go ahead and try to hit it out and save yourself a stroke.
The key here is to play this ball like a buried sand lie with a
nine iron which
will not bounce off the water like a wedge will. Use a cut shot
allowing the blade
to slice through the water at an oblique angle and be sure to
follow through on
your swing.
In other words, you will want your backswing to be more outside of
the
normal line and then come back in across your line with the blade
of the club
open. Keep your hands still in the swing as you won’t want them to
release and
rotate. You may just find yourself back in the water if this
happens.
Punch Shot
A punch shot is used when you need to navigate under tree limbs
and other
low-lying obstacles. You will use a punch shot when you need to
keep the ball low
but still get some distance on your swing. A punch shot is also
used to get your
ball out of trouble and into the fairway. So how do you execute a
good punch
shot?
You can use almost any iron to execute a punch shot, but
generally, a lower
lofted club will work best. Begin by choking down on the shaft and
place the ball
further back in your stance. Seventy percent of your weight should
go mostly on
your left foot if you are a right handed golfer – the opposite for
you lefties.
Your backswing will be about ¾ of your regular backswing. Bring
the club
back making sure you keep your head down throughout almost the
entire swing
because making good contact in this situation is extremely
important. Take the
club back low and then finish low. What that means is that you won’t
have a
normal follow-through as if you were hitting out of the fairway.
But you do have to
follow through.
The punch shot is easy to curve in one direction or another
because you are
generally using a lower lofted iron and they tend to exaggerate
the angle of that
loft. This shot is great for getting yourself out of a sticky
situation involving
natural hazards on the golf course.
The Flop Shot
A flop shot is a high shot that travels a short distance and is
used to get over
objects such as trees. It is designed to sail high and clear these
objects easily. If
you are unable to hit a punch shot and your only option on a hole
is to navigate
the tree, you will want to use a flop shot. It will sail high in
the air and land softly
on the green with little or no forward spin.
You can also use a flop shot if you have a pin that is tucked
tight – or there
isn’t much green in between your ball and the pin. In this
situation, you will need
to get the ball up in the air quickly and land softly.
For a good flop shot, you will generally use a sand wedge or a lob
wedge.
The ball is played more forward in your stance and you will open
the club face
wide and choke down on the club. The club will be taken back using
your wrists
more than anything.
Cock your wrists quickly in the backswing and during the down
swing, you
will release your wrists quickly. Your wrists will also cock in the
follow-through.
Essentially, this is a fast swing that requires you to abandon
natural form to get
the desired results.
Playing Into the Wind
Another of those trouble shots is dealing with the wind. Many
players advise
teeing up the ball lower for a drive into the wind.
For average golfers it is better to tee the ball as normal and hit
as solid a
shot as you can make. The wind will exaggerate any side spin put
on the ball at
impact. This shot demands a solid hit with a nice even tempo.
Teeing the ball low will tend to produce a downward blow rather
than a
sweep through, thus producing more spin.
Another problem with the wind is club selection. If you find
yourself a wedge
distance from the green facing a headwind, try punching a 9 iron
instead. Less
loft means greater control. Stopping it will be no problem.
Our final chapter will be about a very important part of the golf
game that
many people just take for granted – stretching before your game.
STRETCHING FOR GOOD GOLF
The importance of stretching for your golf game cannot be stressed
enough.
Because a good golf swing requires that your body be in a relaxed,
tension-free
state, you will want to release some of that tension before you
ever pick up a golf
club.
The good news is that these stretching exercises are easy and only
take a
few minutes. That means you can effectively stretch right before
you start your
round.
For the first exercise, take your driver and place it across your
shoulders.
Stand with your feet shoulder width apart. Wrap your arms around
the club at
either end. Bend slightly back stretching your back muscles. Bend
side to side so
that you loosen up your side muscles and shoulders. Bend forward
to extend your
back.
Next, perform a partial squat with your golf club in hand. Stand
with your
feet shoulder width apart and place the club in front of you
holding with both
hands for balance. Lower your body by bending at the knees, not
the hips, and
raise the club at the same time. Raise back up and repeat ten
times. During this
whole stretch, you need to keep your upper body very erect.
This exercise will increase your blood flow and circulation
throughout your
body. This is a great total body warm up to allow your body to
make a relaxed,
comfortable first swing. It also increases the range of motion in
your hip which
encourages a more synchronized swing from the ground up.
Finally, you can do a standing rotation twist stretch. Hold a golf
club chest
high with the grip at shoulder width apart. While keeping your
feet and hips fairly
stable, rotate the club to the right and the left. Try to breathe
out on every turn to
release tension. Repeat each side ten times.
By doing this stretch, you will be preparing specific muscles of
the trunk to
make an aggressive move from the first tee on. This also prepares
proper
sequencing of the swing while warming muscles. This exercise will
improve body
movements during the swing from the beginning. This way you will
not sacrifice
strokes on the first couple of holes.
CONCLUSION
We don’t agree with Mark Twain that golf is a good walk wasted. It’s
a
wonderful way to get out in the fresh air, enjoy nature, and have
a little playful
competition with your friends. You can get some great exercise on
the golf course
without straining your body which makes this sport ideal for any
age group to
participate in.
We do, however, agree that golf can be a very frustrating sport
and one that
requires a good mental state of mind as well as an attention to
the body and how
the golf swing works. It can be overwhelming – especially for the
beginning golfer.
It is a great way to make new friends and business executives
agree that the
golf course is a wonderful place to make business deals and
connections.
In order to make the golf game fun, you’ll want to score well.
With the tips
we’ve offered you in this book, we think you’ll be able to take
strokes off your
score when you employ the techniques we have outlined.
But nothing is quite as good for your golf game as practice. The
more you
play, the better you’ll get. Practice on the course, practice on
the driving range,
practice in your backyard. Any time you can emulate swinging a
club, you will
start to learn about what will work and what won’t when you get on
the course.
Above all, don’t be too hard on yourself when you get on the
links. It’s
nearly impossible to perfect the game and you’ll have your share
of problems – it’s
almost guaranteed. That’s why I think this quote can truly sum up
the game of
golf in the best way.
“Golf is so popular simply because it is the best game in the
world at which to be
bad”
~ A.A. Milne
For more information please go to My Golfing Hub
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